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Replacement Components

Page history last edited by Tony Shulthise 5 years, 10 months ago

 

Laser

The laser diode is a violet 405nm 120mw 5.6mm TO18 model (source unknown) with a custom electrostatic discharge prevention circuit board from Lasorb. It also seems to control laser power (which is very temperature sensitive) with feedback from an integrated photo-diode in the laser diode.

 

The PCB is not available on Lasorb's website - or from their parent company Pangolin. See pictures of the PCB here: inside the form1 

 

If we could locate the Q1 "transistor" (6 wires seems wrong for a transistor) component labelled D45A12 and the diode labelled WCA4, or equivalent replacements - then we could easily make our own replacement module.

 

Galvanometers

The galvanometers that control the XY movement of the laser beam are manufactured by Phenix Technology Co. out of Guangdong, China under the model name PT-20Kpps: http://www.phenixtechnology.com/en/product-ari--6.html

 

Sources for the galvanometer kit -- a set of galvanometers, cables, controllers and a power supply --  can be found in China: SpaceLas.com US$89 or StageLightMall.com US$166.  The user manual can be found here as a pdf or under the product details tab at StageLightMall.

 

<kevin>

 I have ordered a galvo X and Y set from StageLightMall.  When it arrives I'll confirm whether it is an exact match - the Form1 galvo daughter boards have "Formlabs" printed on them, but hopefully that's because they asked Phenix Tech to do so.  UPDATE 23/2/14: The galvanometers are drop-in replacements and work beautifully.  See how to tune one here.

</kevin>

 

Stepper Motors

Peel Motor

This standardized 35BYZ component is manufactured by LDO Motors Co., Ltd out of Guangdong, China (per Acon Chen) and costs ~US$15 direct from the manufacturer.  The wiring assignments appear different on the Form 1 version (white-black-yellow-red) compared to LDO's motor (yellow-red-red-yellow).  A simple comparison of the cables and testing with a multimeter/voltmeter will confirm the pin out. 

 

Non-captive permanent magnet linear stepper motor:

Mode

Step Angle

No. of Phase

Voltage

(V)

Current

(A)

Resistance

(Ω)

Step Avail

(mm)

Push Torque

(N)

Journey

(mm)

Leads Number

35BYZ-B01

7.5

2

5

0.46

11

0.0254

55

75

4

 

Mirrors

If you spill resin on your main mirror under the resin vat and it cures - then you'll probably need a new mirror.  Isopropyl alcohol will soften/dissolve cured and uncured resin but unmounting and soaking the main mirror assembly could cause the mirror to separate from the metal backing plate.

 

You will need a "Front Surface" or "Surface First" mirror - one which has the reflective surface on the front of the glass instead of on the back. In the UK, UQG optics supply front surface mirrors at a reasonable price - a 150mm by 150mm is available for less than £40 here for example : http://www.uqgoptics.com/stock-product/MFG-1552.aspx - and Kevin has successfully used that mirror for prints in his first Form1 after he damaged his original mirror.

 

If you somehow manage to damage the small mirror immediately underneath the galvos, then you have a real problem since that mirror is securely glued in position. It might be possible to remove the aluminium block (having demounted the laser and galvos first) and then mount a new mirror - but it may be easier to just return the printer to Formlabs if they have a servicing program by the time you read this.  To dissolve the glue holding the small mirror, soak the aluminium mount and mirror in acetone for several hours.

 

Resin Tank / VAT

So that the model you print only sticks to the build platform and not the resin tank bottom, the vat floor is covered with a layer of PDMS (optically clear silicone). This silicone will get damaged and/or cloudy over time. It's not a question of IF it will get cloudy, but WHEN it will get cloudy. Formlabs offers replacement resin tanks for purchase, but it's not a must to purchase expensive replacement tanks. You can remove the PDMS layer yourself, and also add a new, fresh layer. You'll need to purchase liquid PDMS: it's called Sylgard 184 (look on eBay or Amazon to buy some - I only found very expensive sources in Germany, finally bought some on eBay in the US).

 

<kevin>

Seconding Etiennes comment on only being able to find Sylgard affordably on ebay in US - I found it sold by the pound from a seller called mlsolar  for $48.49, although the same company also sells PDMS on the US amazon site for a very similar price http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IJENBG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1Z4QPXV0KM1LQ

</kevin>

 

Here's detailed instructions on how to replace a cloudy PDMS layer for the clear Form1 trays.  The amber colored trays require 65 gms of silicone vs 84 gms : http://blog.madesolid.com/2013/09/changing-pdms-coating-form1-printer-vat/

 

If someone can put this into a link form that would be great...

The following is what I've tried that works on my Form1+:

NOTE: The silicone inside the tank weighs 64 grams (I weighed two of mine). If you are interested in dimensions of the silicone removed - the outside square is approx. 6.5” and 0.80” deep. The inside square is approx.. 5.38” and 0.110” deep.

I purchased Slygard 184 silicone from Amazon.com. http://www.amazon.com/Sylgard-Solar-Encapsulation-Making-Panels/dp/B004IJENBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421607096&sr=8-1&keywords=sylgard+184#product-description-iframe1

Remove current silicone from bottom of the used tray by picking at one corner and pulling it up. It comes out pretty easily.

NOTE: Sanding the edges of the inside bottom of the tray outside the print area may help the silicone to adhere to the tray bottom. I have had the edges peal up on mine but not in the printable area. I’ll try sanding the next one to see if that helps.

Clean everything with soap and water and a clean microfiber cloth. Make sure the inside surface of the tray is perfectly clean before proceeding.

NOTE: Minimize exposure of the silicone to dust and particles. Keep the work area very clean and place the tray cover over the tray when you can.

Mix 80 ml of Slygard 184 per mfg instructions in a 1 liter container. You will need 65 ml per tray and you can't get all of the silicone out of the mixing container so you have to mix some extra.

NOTE: Pouring 5 or 6 trays at a time saves you the wasted silicone that doesn't come out of the mixing container so you will get around 6 tanks per 16 oz of Slygard 186 if you do them all at once. You should get 5 if you do them one at a time.

Degas the silicone in a clean, dust free, vacuum chamber for 30 minutes. The silicone volume will expand approximately 10x so make sure its in a large container so it doesn't overflow.

NOTE: Place the tray cover over the tray at an angle so that it can't form a seal. Otherwise, when you let air back into the chamber the cover will implode into your tray.

NOTE: It may be possible to get all the bubbles out just by using a heat gun. I’m not sure. I'll try that on one tray during my next round of refurbishments.

Ensure the bottom inside of the tray is clean and clear. Place print tray on a scale accurate to 1 gram and pour 65-70 grams of mixed Slygard 184 into the bottom of the tray.

Place the tray on level surface. I suggest making a level place on a counter and marking it so you can use the same spot every time and not have to check level every time. Put tray cover on the tray and let the silicone level and allow bubbles rise near the top for 15 minutes

Remove the cover and use a heat gun over surface of the silicone and surface bubbles will pop instantly. Don't hold the heat in one place for long. Just enough to pop the bubbles. Its very satisfying to see how quickly they pop.

Once all of the bubbles are gone allow at least 48 hours at 70F or higher for the silicone to cure.

NOTE: I placed the tray in a 150F a Nuwave Convection oven for a few hours to accelerate the cure time of the silicone. I didn't want to go higher for fear of damaging the acrylic in the tray. Remember, the tray has to be level wherever you put it while its curing.

 

 

 

Comments (3)

evanfoss@gmail.com said

at 7:39 pm on Jun 21, 2014

The artwork on the laser diode board is spelled out on the lasorb website look at page 2 of this document.
http://www.lasorb.com/pdf/LASORB_purchasing_options.pdf
Now it does not effect the performance that much but if it was me I would have just put the current source that drives the laser on that same board as the laser itself and just ESD protected that whole thing.

Max Spencer said

at 1:45 am on Sep 14, 2015

This is the lasorb device from the picture (http://www.lasorb.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/LASORB_TSOP6.pdf). Seems it wouldn't be too hard to purchase the 100 units of surface mount components, and build your own replacement board.

JonO said

at 5:09 pm on Mar 25, 2018

Q1 "transistor" (6 wires seems wrong for a transistor) component labelled D45A12 is probably Nexperia PBSS4420D NPN Biss transistor, diode labelled WC (A4 is the year code Jan 2013) is a Vishay BZT52 6V8. I have a CTC Form 1 clone which has a different board and laser, I think maybe the same as the early kickstarter versions. It was sealed with epoxy, but managed to dremel it out without damaging the board. The laser diode just died in this so am working on trying replacements.

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